By Gerald Asher
Gerald Asher, who served as Gourmet’s wine editor for thirty years, has drawn jointly this option of his essays, released in Gourmet and in different places, for the collective perception they offer into why a wine must always be an expression of a spot and a time. Guiding the reader via twenty-seven various wine areas in France, Italy, Spain, Germany, and California, he exhibits how each wine worthy consuming is a mirrored image of its terroir—in the broadest feel of that untranslatable note. In evocative memories of wines, winemakers, and the nutrients he has had with them, he weaves jointly weather, terrain, and native historical past, sharing his wisdom and event so skillfully that we study as we're entertained and are available to appreciate, progressively, that the that means and enjoyment of a wine lie regularly within the context of its beginning and within the concurrence of the place, how, and with whom we get pleasure from it.
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Extra info for A Vineyard in My Glass
In this vision of perfect communion between cook and consumer, French cuisine reaches to a perduring ideal of a better world. The ﬁ lm resurrects a childhood world of nurturing women, grandmothers’ cooking, “real” food, and the tastes rooted in place that the French call terroir. It also reminds us that, in France, the meal comes ﬁ rst. 20 Chapter 1 Haute Cuisine pledges its allegiance to the culinary rear guard. There is no place here for today’s disconcertingly mobile food world of restaurants that range over many cultures, of exciting taste experiments that call on innovative techniques and unexpected products.
To see culinary nationalism in action, I propose a ﬁ lm, Le Grand Chef (Shik Gaek), Th inking About Food 29 from South Korea (2007). Based on a popular television series, itself based on an equally popular graphic novel, Le Grand Chef tells the story of the contest for a legendary knife that had belonged to the last imperial chef. So intense was his devotion to the emperor that, rather than practice his art for the Japanese occupiers, the chef chopped oﬀ his hand. The Japanese conquerors conﬁscated the knife.
Of course. Yet Pampille is dead serious about the indissoluble link between history and cuisine—that is, French history and French cuisine. You may well say, so what? Why should we care about the permutations of French cuisine? Let French chefs boast all they want. Why should it make any diﬀerence to us? To which I would respond, because it does make a diﬀerence. Convinced of their authority, the French have convinced many others as well. That talk about excellence and quality is more than vain boasting because it can count on the support received from both everyday practices and governmental policies.
A Vineyard in My Glass by Gerald Asher